Tree Transplanting

When & how should a young tree be transplanted?
By: Guest
Date: 0000-00-00-00:00:00-
Response
1
Homeowners often need to move or transplant trees within the yard. Trees may have been planted too thickly or threaten to out-grow available space. Size is a critical factor in transplanting. The larger a tree, the more difficult it is to transplant. If you have a small tree growing near your house, driveway, or patio, visualize it at full size and decide now if it must one day be moved. The longer you ignore it, the less likely you will be able to save the tree.

Difficulty: Average

Time Required: Takes approimately an hour to dig tree and replant tree (including prep time)

Here's How:

1. The perfect day to move your tree is when the humidity is high during early spring but just before it's leaves begin to bud out. While roots take up most of a trees moisture, leaves will give moisture up through evaporation when under stress. Avoid moving trees with leaves.

2. Preplanning helps. If you know a tree is to be moved in advance, root pruning will greatly increase the chances of successful transplanting. By severing the roots at or just beyond the drip line of the tree to be moved, the long unbranched roots will be broken. This prompts re-growth of new roots near the main trunk. It takes two to three seasons to fully root prune a tree, but can help even as early as six months. This will compact the existing root system and increase the tree's chances of survival once it is moved.

3. Younger is better. Increasing the size of a tree's root ball increases the effort it takes to transplant. It also decreases a tree's chance of survival if not done properly. Leave moving trees over 4" in diameter to the professionals. It is easier to transplant small stemmed trees and they will overcome the transplant shock much easier and quicker.

4. Each tree you move needs a protective "root ball" for proper transplanting. Small root balls (up to about 12-14? in diameter) can be done with an ordinary spade. You want to preserve as much of the soil surrounding the feeder roots as you can. The feeder roots are located only in the upper few inches of the soil so be very careful with that portion of the ball.

5. It is important that you have already prepared your planting site and that conditions are correct for successful growth. The tree you dig should not be exposed to the elements for very long. Be sure the tree will be able to reach full maturity without competition and provide a site where soil is deep, fertile and well-drained.

6. Dig the planting hole deep enough to accommodate roots without twisting and breaking either the roots or the soil ball. The hole should be as deep as the root ball and the tree roots transplanted to a depth approximating its original level.

7. Follow my planting instructions and make sure you correctly mulch and water the transplanted tree. It is extremely important that the newly planted tree has adequate initial moisture and that it is maintained. Do not fertilize the tree for one year.

Tips:

1. An approximate rule of thumb is to use a root ball 20 times the diameter of the trunk (as measured just above the basal flare) for trunks up to ?? in diameter, 18 times the diameter of the trunk for ?-1? diameter trunks, 16 times the trunk diameter for trunks 1-1?? in diameter, 14 times the trunk diameter for trunks 1?-2?? in diameter, and 12 times the trunk diameter for trunks 2?? to 4? in diameter. For most trees and shrubs, the root ball depth should be about 8? for a 12? diameter root ball, ranging up to about 18? for a 48? diameter root ball.

What You Need:

* Planting or transplanting spade

* Available water and mulch

[d] By: Guest
Date: 0000-00-00-00:00:00--
Response
1
1. Select a sapling to transplant. The sapling will need to be small enough that you can dig up its root system with it - about no more than 2 or 3 inches / 5 cm - 7.6 cm) thick at the base. Also, you need to make sure that it is a variety that can handle the stress of transplanting - sometimes this will just have to be a case of trial and error if you do not know. Some good varieties include oak, birch, magnolia, dogwoods, eucalyptus and tea tree.

2. Choose a suitable spot to receive the new transplant. The soil will need to be a similar type, with similar drainage and sun exposure for the new tree to thrive.

3. Dig the hole to receive the transplant first. Estimate how large the root system will be when you dig it out. Allow for the root system to go into the ground to the same depth it was originally at. If the soil is extremely hard or compacted, you will want to dig the hole much larger to loosen the soil around the perimeter to make it easier for the roots to spread when they begin to grow outward. Normally on a transplanted tree you will want to hold off fertilizing until it begins to get established. Adding too much fertilizer or adding it too early will tend to stimulate the tree to put more growth out than the stressed roots can support.

4. Dig up the transplant tree. You will need to begin by cutting a circle around the root system of the sapling with a sharp, round pointed shovel. Make your cuts about 12 inches / 30.5 cm from the base of the tree, as deep as you can, so that you preserve the roots intact. If the ground is firm enough and has moisture, often you can cut around and down below the main root mass and remove it intact without disturbing the roots. If the soil is very dry, you should water it thoroughly before beginning to dig. If the soil is loose and sandy, you will need a sheet of plastic or some cloth to set the sapling on to support it during the move.

5. Remove the sapling by grabbing it near the ground and lifting it straight out of the hole. If it has a large tap root or large roots extending out from the trunk that are not cut through, you will either have to dig until you reach these or find another suitable tree. When you force these roots out of the ground you will probably do severe damage to all the roots, and the chances of success are much less. If you have pulled the tree up with most of the roots still in soil, you can carry it a short distance to replant it. If it is to be loaded and hauled to another location, set it in the center of your plastic or burlap fabric, drawn this material around it to support the roots and soil, and tie it off around the trunk. Any shaking, jarring, or other action to the root ball will decrease the chances the tree will survive by loosening the soil around the roots and allowing air to reach them, causing them to dry out.

6. Place the sapling in the hole you have dug at the new location. Make sure that the sapling is at the same depth as when you removed it. Ease loose soil in around it to support it, watering as you do so, to eliminate voids or air pockets, but not so much that you wash the soil from the roots.

7. Fill the hole level with the adjacent ground. Use the excess soil that should remain, build a small dike or earth dam about 3 inches / 7.6 cm high around it, some 2 feet / 61 cm or so from the trunk. This will keep water from running off when you water the tree.

8. Rewater the tree after the initial watering has soaked in. This should help the soil to settle and you can assist to refill the hole by adding more dirt.

9. Stake the sapling. If there is a danger of high wind blowing the sapling down before the soil is compacted and the roots begin growing out to establish a new foot hold. This can be done by driving some re-bar, pipe, or wooden stakes spaced around the tree about 3 feet / 91 cm from the trunk, and tying wire or strong string wrapped around the trunk loosely at the lower branches to these stakes. You may want to wrap the string or wire with a split cut off piece of garden hose where it contacts the tree to keep it from chaffing the bark there.

[d] By: Guest
Date: 0000-00-00-00:00:00--
Response
1
Tips

* Transplanting is much more successful if the specimen is dormant. This means that the best time for transplanting occurs in the late fall (autumn) or winter. However, if you succeed in removing the roots still covered with earth, the tree should survive even in the summer.

* Keep watering the sapling at least once a week through its first growing season.

* If the leaves fall off after moving the sapling, wait and see if it rebuds and puts out new leaves. Often stress will cause the leaves to drop even if the tree is living. As long as the branches seem supple and flexible, it is probably alive.

* Remove any guy wires before they begin to cut into the tree as it grows.

* Tag the direction the sapling is facing when it is removed, and try to match it. This is called "sun orientation", and this is important to observe because it eases the sapling's adaptation as it adjusts to the new location. An example would be to mark or tie a ribbon to the north side of the tree before removing it, and planting with this side again facing north.

* If you are searching for a new tree for your landscape, respect the rights of landowners. Do not go on private property or into state or national parks to get your new tree without obtaining permission.

* Transplanting a sapling can be successful and a rewarding experience, but it takes attention and willingness to follow up after the job is done.

* Fill the hole where you dug up your new tree so that no one falls in it.

[d] By: Guest
Date: 0000-00-00-00:00:00--
Response
What is 1 + 100

Just Updated::